SquareMeal Review of
El Vino Fleet Street
These convivial wine bars boast some of the capital’s most historic locations - the Cannon Street branch, for example, is housed in a former smugglers’ haunt that survived the Great Fire of London. Some of the venues wear their place in history lightly, their tongue-and-groove panelling updated with a lick of Farrow & Ball; others revel in the patina of their polished wood and Cluedo-style candelabras. Despite the tavern-style feel of these pubby bars, the wine list reads like that of a high-minded restaurant, with loads by the glass and some gems, such as a 2013 Pouilly Fuissé, also available in magnum. It’s global in scope but favours Iberian and South American wines to match the Spanish-style menu - tapas such as piquillo peppers stuffed with mint-infused whipped goats’ curd, or aromatic pork skewers with spicy mojo for dipping venture beyond the usual tortilla and croquetas. Plenty for the modern Londoner, then.
El Vino Fleet Street is recommended for