SquareMeal Review of
Given that its chef arrived at this leafy corner spot via Hix and Ducksoup, it's no surprise that Eelbrook oozes class and confidence. There are hints of the building's former incarnation as a café in the clean-cut interior, but the Mediterranean-inspired menu delivers far more than coffee and cake. Impeccable British ingredients are handled with creativity and care – from tender, flame-licked squid with vibrant coriander mojo sauce to Elwy lamb sirloin with almond-flecked skordalia and thyme-roasted apricots. Other hits include roast duck breast with sweet potato, cherries and pistachios, but our vote goes to a thick tranche of Dorset hake with a silky swirl of cauliflower purée and beurre noisette. No wonder the relaxed, chirpy staff seem so proud of the place. Eelbrook's "green and calm" terrace (now under cover) is another reason to take notice.