Duke of Cambridge

30 St Peter's Street , London, N1 8JT

  • DUKE EXTERIOR
  • DUKE of Cambridge INTERIOR bar

SquareMeal Review of Duke of Cambridge

Geetie Singh, owner of this expansive, airy pub in the backstreets of Islington, has an MBE for services to the organic pub trade. She has also written a cookbook, so her well-heeled devotees can attempt to replicate the culinary experience at home. You can see why they’d want to: a meal might start with beef carpaccio with radish, rocket & pickled red onion, & continue with whole lemon sole with fresh peas, broad beans, bacon & cider sauce. The Duke is certified by the Soil Association, approved by the Marine Conservation Society, runs on wind & solar electricity, & sources most of its produce from the Home Counties. To drink, try a pint of London-brewed Freedom or Pitfield ale, or a glass of chilled English wine, & treat yourself to cherry tart with vanilla & amaretto ice cream.

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4.0

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 6.0

Value: 3.0

Food & Drink: 2.0

Service: 2.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 1.0

ck 30 September 2014

I used to frequent the Duke of Cambridge some ten years ago when it was one of THE gastropubs and I fondly remember having several rather good meals here. When I went last Saturday with a bunch of friends for lunch, the pub was far less busy than it used to be, and after our lunch I can see why. The food always verged on the expensive, but hey, everything is strictly organic, so maybe its worth it? The short answer is: it's not. Several dishes including my starter of pig's head terrine lacked seasoning, my main was a sad-looking and rather tiny roast leg of chicken on a bed of half mashed vegetables (think pre-Jamie Oliver school dinner for a pretty steep £15) and a friend's shakshuka was covered by two eggs of the consistency of rubber, suggesting (repeated?) reheating. The staff were not unfriendly, but seemed disinterested--my main had apparently been forgotten and hence came late and gravy for the roast chicken was only produced on request (without an excuse). This place exudes the air of something that had its day; the people who manage it appear to have lost all interest in it, or in good food in general. It still is a nice space, so I recommend going there for an organic pint of beer now and then, but avoid the food at all (high) cost.

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