SquareMeal Review of
Tooting’s foodie credentials have been on the up for a while now, and this Taiwanese joint is a great addition to the area. From the team behind Peckham’s Mr Bao, it’s named in honour of owner Frank Yeung’s father, a veteran restaurateur who grew up in Hong Kong. The stars of the show here are the pillowy bao buns – ridiculously good value at under a fiver each – which come stuffed with delicious fillings. Stand-outs on our visit included the slow-braised pork belly pepped up with house pickles, peanuts and coriander, and the spicy ginger-braised tofu with crispy onions and the house kimchi.
Other small sharing plates worth a punt include fried chicken with smoky miso mayo, fragrant pork dumplings and sesame aubergine dressed up with peanut sauce, pomegranates and spring onion. There are no puds, but drinks include a fiendishly good Barrel-Aged Plum Wine Negroni made with chocolate bitters, as well as wines and canned Taiwan Lager. Like its Peckham sibling, the weekend offering includes bottomless brunch: try bao Benedict or Taiwanese spring onion pancakes with kimchi, cheddar and a fried egg, washed down with a Bloody Mary laced with wasabi salt. Friendly service and a lively vibe score more plus points. Watch out Tooting, the Daddy of all bao restaurants has arrived.