SquareMeal Review of
Along with nearby Neo Bistro, Cubé is making the shopworn corner of Mayfair that rubs along Oxford Street an unlikely destination for reasonably priced top-end dining, served with personality and warmth. Not that Cubé is cheap (good Japanese never is), but the menu of inventive Asian tapas and beautifully crafted sushi is a snip compared to bigger names nearby. Diners can sit up close and personal at a counter watching chef Osamu Mizuno (ex-Sake No Hana) work his magic in a narrow open kitchen, or at proper tables and chairs in the sparsely decorated dining room behind, although with room for only 24 diners, it all feels pretty intimate. We loved everything we ate, from the traditional – silky agedashi tofu slipping into a limpid broth, meltingly soft tuna otoro atop a nigiri of individually defined grains of rice – to the innovative – who knew that eel with mango and foie gras would make such a successful sushi topping? – and the downright bonkers: ‘mentai renkon cheese’, a cheese, cod roe and lotus root sandwich, was a delirious umami wallop of deep savouriness. If you fancy pushing the boat out, there’s a £75 omakase chef’s menu, while the 12-seat basement hideaway bar serves rare wines for low marks ups (Pol Roger 1996 for £150) alongside premium Japanese whiskies.