SquareMeal Review of
An oasis of “elegant tranquillity” above Leeds’ smart new inside-outside shopping centre, Crafthouse (and its sibling Angelica) are the first regional restaurants from capital-based D&D London. The lofty position allows for terrific views, but there’s plenty to look at inside, with an open kitchen dominating one of the stylish, soberly dressed dining rooms. This place is now a strong contender in the city and it’s “clearly passionate about every aspect of hospitality “, from the top-notch service to the “unbelievable”, beautifully presented food. Many punters are attracted by the smoky Josper-grilled steaks and native lobsters, but the menu offers plenty of possibilities for those who like their food with more on-trend embellishments: seared duck liver comes with compressed watermelon, hemp granola, sour yoghurt, sorrel water and L8 harvest vinegar, while poached line-caught sea bass is accompanied by langoustine tortellini, Japanese cucumber, sweet pea, kombu seaweed, pickled daikon and dashi. Desserts keep it simple with crème brûlée or sticky toffee soufflé, while drinks include plenty of well-chosen wines by the glass or carafe. “Not to be missed”, says a fan.