SquareMeal Review of
Côte St Martins Lane
There are Francophiles behind this nationwide French brasserie group – that much is obvious. Every last detail, from the rattan terrace furniture and patterned tile floors to the bentwood chairs and mirrored walls, has been borrowed from across the Channel. But Côte isn’t backward-looking; it’s a modern interpretation of a classic concept that’s designed to suit the British market. It also ticks off all the classics when it comes to food and wine: you can always find steak-frites, moules marinière and crème caramel here, as well as the bottles of Chinon, Picpoul and even Orangina you might want to quaff with them. ‘Plat rapides’ such as hachis parmentier or poulet grillée, plus fortnightly changing specials including duck confit are useful additions to the carte, as is the ‘formule’ breakfast of full English, juice and coffee. A solid high-street presence.