SquareMeal Review of
Cin Cin Brighton
There’s barely room to swing a leg of Parma ham in this cute Italian restaurant, which seats just 18 diners at a U-shaped counter around the open kitchen and bar. Owner David Toscano is here most nights (and days), pouring bracing Negronis accompanied by fat glossy-green olives and duvet-like focaccia. Meanwhile, the one-man kitchen sends out a succession of small plates bursting with flavour. Expect tender rabbit croquettes, burrata drizzled with top-notch balsamic and olive oil, and silky handmade pappardelle liberally doused in beef-shin ragu. Don’t miss the superb Italian cheeses and salumi, which are piled up on the bar and cleaved into generous slices at a moment’s notice – but save space for the blood-orange pannacotta. Cin Cin is a great space for people watching, whether that’s ogling fellow diners at the counter or simply admiring the ballet of chef, barman and owner working together in the tiny kitchen.