SquareMeal Review of
There’s a lot going on behind the modest frontage of this Chinese restaurant on a Holborn side street. Step inside and you’ll find a striking minimalist space done out in pastel shades with grey banquettes, marble-topped tables, modernist chairs and oriental plants, plus two karaoke rooms for hire downstairs. As you might expect, the food has a Cantonese bias with a strong showing of dim sum heading up proceedings: steamed prawn and courgette dumplings, ‘golden lava’ buns (with a creamy egg-custard filling), stuffed beancurd-skin rolls and spicy pork wontons are just some of possibilities. The full menu covers everything from braised pork belly with preserved vegetables to crispy aromatic duck, but also look for ‘new dishes’ such as deep-fried chicken wings with salted egg yolks, poached beef in chilli oil or claypot fish with aubergine and sea-spice sauce.