SquareMeal Review of
Punchy Scottish and European beers are the draw at this fifth London taproom for the independent-minded ‘punk’ brewery. The action takes place on two rumbustious floors: the site of former Champagne bar, Amuse Bouche. Ten Brewdog beers – and as many guests on draught – are advertised on a 1950s American diner-style display light box. Samplers and flights are available before committing to the likes of Vagabond Pale Ale (£5.60), the all-conquering Dead Pony Club, or grapefruity, resinous Jack Hammer (a whopping 7.2% abv). Choose too from a compelling range of global bottled beers that includes stonking stout Oskar Blues Ten FIDY, and extraordinary green-tea beer, Magic Ghost, from Belgium’s Fantôme. Melts, hot dogs, salads, ice creams and shakes act as damage limitation. Brewdog chose these new Soho premises for the launch of No Label, ‘the world’s first transgender beer’, a pale lager made with hops that change sex prior to harvesting.