SquareMeal Review of
This rambling Hockley speakeasy is a fun find. Its entrance is convincingly mocked up as a boiler-repair shop, and the man behind the counter is so nonchalant you wonder whether he’s misheard your request for a table for two. Once you’ve passed through the adjoining ‘broom cupboard’, however, you’ll discover a relaxed, grown-up bar kitted out in fittingly industrial decor that’s softened with climbing vines, candlelight and an unpretentious pop soundtrack. The drinks menu is wittily laid out as a user manual, in which cocktail ingredients are ‘features’, diagrams explain modern British drinking culture, and inside covers carry the words ‘This page has been intentionally left blank’. Try a Stockbroker’s Breakfast (butter-washed and pancake-infused bourbons with a splash of US-diner pancake syrup and a smoky, salty hit of bacon bitters); an equally delicious Espresso Martini topped with an upturned cone of advocaat ice cream; or a good-value seasonal special.