SquareMeal Review of
Noted for its swish boutique opulence, the trendsetting Club Hotel & Spa sits well in St Helier’s fashionably moneyed financial quarter – although cool elegance prevails in the flagship Bohemia restaurant. But don’t be fooled by the dining room’s wood panelling, leather chairs or muted brown and grey furnishings, because there’s nothing subdued about Steve Smith’s Michelin-starred cooking. A bewildering array of menus is offered, although the ‘surprise’ and ‘prestige’ options provide the most comprehensive demonstrations of the chef’s talents. From the first taste of potato with quail’s egg and ceps to the last mouthful of ‘yuzu, jivara and lactose’, it’s a roller-coaster of intricate flavours and contrasting textures. Along the way, you might sample the following: oyster with cucumber and dill; scallop with Cevennes onion, lardo di colonnata and truffle; squab pigeon with turnip, pistachio, rhubarb, pigeon toast and smoked leg. Meanwhile, the carte offers some more approachable ideas including lamb loin and braised neck with Jerusalem artichoke and goats’ cheese. The food is matched by an impressive international wine list, with France in pole position.