SquareMeal Review of
Ben's Canteen Earlsfield
The work of a former employee of Vice magazine, the Ben’s Canteen mini-chain more or less had a mandate to be cool from the word go – but it also manages to be a laid-back, welcoming hangout whose Aussie vibe and expansive menu fit the bill for every time of day, from breakfast to one-for-the-road cocktails. Brunch is a strong point, with a trio of celebrated burgers (try the buttermilk chicken version) competing in the calorie stakes with the likes of pulled pork and poached eggs slathered with hollandaise sauce, plus Down Under drinks that range from a tongue-in-cheek glass of ice-cold Berocca, to rum-heavy iced coffee. The over-indulgence continues into lunch and dinner via ‘nduja-studded mac ‘n’ cheese, peanut butter-laced milkshakes and yet more burgers – all of which come with pairing suggestions from the dynamic global wine list. The dining rooms have a folksy, cosy feel, with lights strung around the ceiling and patchily whitewashed walls and furniture. Don’t be surprised to arrive for brunch and find yourself still there, soaking up the atmosphere, come bedtime.