SquareMeal Review of
The latest offering from Michelin-starred chef Adam Stokes (formerly at Glenapp Castle in Scotland) occupies a one-time sandwich shop in Birmingham’s commercial district. Inside, this stylishly sophisticated gaff has been tricked out with faux marble, globe lights, mirrors and a cathedral-like trompe l’oeil centrepiece to create a dramatic backdrop for the chef’s formidable culinary talents. On offer is a choice of “unbelievable” menus defined by clever, playful conceits and terse dish descriptions – from ‘scallop, white wine, eel, grape’ to ‘pigeon, mushroom ketchup, rhubarb, pickled carrot’ or ‘duck, beetroot, kale’. Opening salvos might include a punchy combo of veal sweetbread, hen of the woods (mushrooms), black pudding and golden raisins, while seasonally inclined desserts could feature raspberries in company with lemon curd, meringue and sherbet. Lunch is a more straightforward prospect, but whatever you choose, this head-turning Brummie challenger is bang on the money for a city with an ever-rising foodie profile.