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53 Meeting House Lane
“The outstanding performer on the South coast for the past few years”, declares a fan of 64 Degrees – and we’re not about to disagree. Like Brighton itself, it’s edgy, hip, leftfield and idiosyncratic – a rockin’ modern eatery from veteran local chef Michael Bremner (ex- Food for Friends and finalist on TV’s Great British Menu in 2017). It’s a thrillingly theatrical concept too, with an open kitchen occupying half the space, chefs wheeling out the dishes as they’re ready, and half the punters perched on yellow-topped stools by the pass. On offer is a tersely worded, on-message daily menu of “clever, clever” small plates (four each of meat, fish, veg and desserts), all “beautifully thought out” and presented with real panache – as well as sense of fun. Picking at random from each section, you might have flat iron misozuko with Bovril and shallot, a fish riff involving brill, grapefruit and chilli or a veggie plate of Gorgonzola, kimchi and hazelnut. After that, keep things sweet with a Rum Bear jelly – a corpulent booze-soaked little beast that looks like a mutant from the Haribo menagerie, sitting alongside a heap of blazing-yellow sherbet. OK, your wine might be served in functional glasses, but staff are clued-up and accommodating, prices won’t cause any panic, and the whole shebang fizzes.
SquareMeal’s Best Restaurants in the UK 2018 is compiled using votes from our annual survey, last conducted in spring 2018. Thousands of readers took part and the results were moderated by SquareMeal’s editor and his nationwide team of professional reviewers. The UK survey does not include any restaurants in London. Click here for the full list of SquareMeal’s Best Restaurants in the UK.
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Best restaurants in Brighton
53 Meeting House Lane
Aquarium Station 417m
Brighton Station 967m
Royal Pavilion, Brighton 492m
Palace Pier 728m
Mon-Sat 12N-3pm 6-9.45pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 4
This tiny restaurant in the Lanes of Brighton has been on my list to visit having watched Michael Bremner on GBM. The restaurant is tiny with one table that seats 6, one that seats 4 and one that seats 2 and the rest are stools around the pass.
We arrived at the time of our booking to be told that the people in front of us were finishing up and settling the bill, so we waited 10 minutes or so.
Once seated, one of us had a silent pool gin and elderflower cocktail and the other two a glass of champagne each. There were 16 dishes on the menu (comprising fish, meat, vegetables and dessert) and they recommended 7-9 dishes for three of us to share. We were served an amuse-bouche of salt cod brandade with toasted rye bread which was very tasty and would have been perfect to accompany our pre-dinner drinks but for some reason it arrived after the first 2 of our courses.
We ordered seabass ceviche, butternut squash with goats cheese, tagliatelle with yolk and truffle, gurnard and mussels with red pepper reduction, beef rib and carrots, and lamb. We were given another amuse-bouche of cucumber and lime sorbet and we finished up sharing a delightful chocolate and coffee mousse and rhubarb and custard with shortbread, all washed down with a bottle of Riesling.
It was a very pleasant meal, the food was flavoursome and well-presented with some interesting twists. It’s a long way from London for an evening meal so I would only return if I happened to be in the area. The only negative was the rather rude waiter, who came over to our table while we were eating dessert to say that we had to finish quickly as the next diners had arrived (no one had ever told me that it was a 2 hour booking). I pointed to that we had to wait 10+ minutes for the table before us to vacate, so we were delayed sitting and his answer was “that’s hardly the point is it?”.
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