Whether it’s pouring with rain or freezing, autumn continues to shuffle along, but at least this time of year means you can truffle along, too – we recommend a spot of gastronomic indulgence as a cure for any autumnal blues. White truffle, that most deliciously pretentious of ingredients, is having its on-season right now. Allow us to direct you to the tastiest places to sniff them out.
Words: Eamonn Crowe
45 Jermyn St, St James’s
What: 45’s head chef Lee Streeton bought 5kg of white Alba truffle in preparation for the season, which can cost an eye-watering £2,950 per kilogram. Lee is using it to make dishes including Champagne truffle risotto, woodland mushroom tortellini and pan-fried duck egg with foie gras.
Where: 45 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6DN
Bocca di Lupo, Soho
What: If BYOB is a student favourite, BYOT is the Waitrose of restaurant acronyms: Jacob Kenedy’s Bocca di Lupo is inviting guests to bring their own truffles at no extra cost, which are cleaned up by the staff then served with a spread specifically tailored for truffles – fancy.
Where: 12 Archer Street, W1D 7BB
Coq d’Argent, City
What: Coq d’Argent has partnered with premium French mustard brand Maille to create a special six-course mustard-and-truffle tasting menu. Dishes include scrambled duck egg with shaved truffles and Dijon mustard, veal cutlet in a wild mushroom sauce, Chablis and black-truffle mustard mashed potatoes, finished with dark chocolate and confit orange tart.
Where: 1 Poultry, EC2R 8EJ
What: The menu at Daphne’s is chock-full of Italian dishes, so the inimitable white truffle was bound to make an appearance. Chef Mike Brown has devised a menu of truffly dishes, including beef carpaccio, home-made tagliatelle and beef fillet with polenta and baby spinach.
Where: 112 Draycott Avenue, SW3 3AE
Diciannove at the Crowne Plaza Hotel, City
What: Head chef Alessandro Bay has created a three-course white truffle menu including beef carpaccio, truffle dressing and white truffle, followed by fresh tagliatelle with taleggio cream and white truffle. After that, you’ll gorge on beef fillet with mashed potatoes, veal jus and – you guessed it - fresh white truffle.
Where: Crowne Plaza Hotel, 19 New Bridge Street, EC4V 6DB
What: This sleek Liverpool Street spot boasts a dedicated truffle menu. Head chef Lello Favuzzi enjoys mashing them up in potatoes, pairing them with veal chop, or shaving them on beef escalope with burrata.
Where: 1 Snowden Street, London, EC2A 2DQ
What: Visitors to Sartoria can chow down on chef patron Francesco Mazzei’s dedicated truffle menu. Diners (who must pre-book at least 24 hours in advance) can enjoy dishes such as egg tagliolini and slow-braised veal cheek with polenta corvino. Also, who could resist a dessert of white chocolate soup with truffle ice cream?
Where: 20 Savile Row, W1S 3PR
Savoy Grill at The Savoy, Covent Garden
What: Mr Ramsay’s swanky Strand fine-diner is offering a special dish of white truffle beef Wellington: that’s Lake District beef and white Alba truffles, with trimmings including roasted shallots and white truffle linguine.
Where: The Savoy, Strand, WC2R 0EU
If you’re a true Italophile, peruse our pick of the best Italian restaurants in London, or for further autumnal inspiration, check out our selection of London’s best new seasonal dishes.
This article was published 18 November 2016