If you’re used to the identikit, European-style Chinese restaurants, then you’ll need a major mind-shift before trying the Wing Sing Inn. Authenticity is the reason why this place is regularly stuffed full of garrulous Chinese families, and the food is also notable for its fantastically low prices. The basic decor and culturally alien menu may put some people off, but it’s well worth taking the plunge because the flavours are a revelation – even if some of the translations are unintentionally amusing (‘flog’s legs’ anyone?). Salt and pepper squid, garlicky razor clams with glass vermicelli noodles, dry-fried ‘guo tie’ dumplings, tripe with chilli, and five- spice aubergine with pork are just some of the deliciously full-frontal specialities that should appeal to adventurous western palates – but also look out for pork lung, jellyfish, preserved eggs and other esoteric delicacies.