When chefs open restaurants, we hear so often about pedigrees. The CV can often just be marketing by association, but in the case of Wildflowers - devised by former Trinity and Elystan Street head chef Aaron Potter - his creation really does have echoes of both those restaurants, particularly the former. There’s a laser-focused precision to the flavours that is reminiscent of Trinity, and an emphasis on personal service that feels all too rare in London nowadays.
This is a beautiful restaurant, but one that feels like an extension of a home. Potter and team are busy behind a beautiful marble-topped chef’s counter, which holds a selection of crockery and influential cookbooks within its shelves. A charcoal grill ticks away in the background. Pale wood and marble tiles continue the theme through the restaurant, which feels breezy and modern, but still has a bit of neighbourhood charm thanks to cutesy beige cafe curtains and personable staff.
On paper, Wildflowers certainly has a winning formula. The restaurant has an easy-going deliciousness that feels very Mediterranean - case in point, snacks like the moules farcies and gnocco fritto with coppa, gorgonzola, truffle honey. The latter is a crisp fried pasta parcel, draped generously with a holy trinity of ingredients. Is it tough to do? Not especially, but the combo is exponentially more than the sum of its parts. Moules farcies are gently steamed, and presented like oysters with a smooth garlic and parsley butter. Again, it’s not complicated food, but few restaurants pull off classic flavours with this care and attention to detail. We’d happily just eat four rounds of moules, sink a bottle of Chablis and be on our way.
We’ve just spent a paragraph eulogising the snacks, so you’ll be glad to hear there’s more of the same as you continue down the menu. Lamb tartare is a perfect match for the dank, rich, earthiness of good harissa and creamy labneh. The cuttlefish fideua - a smash hit whilst Potter was on the supper club circuit - is a majestic plate of food, sticking to the principle of great ingredients and great craftsmanship.
Perhaps what sums up Wildflowers best is a little coup of fior di latte gelato, rippled with balsamic grape must, sea salt and olive oil. It’s smart, honest ‘cooking’, by someone who thinks about food in the right way. You probably can’t go wrong with anything you order on this menu, and that’s the greatest compliment you can give a restaurant, isn’t it?