Wild at Bull Burford

Nowhere is the tension between old-school residents and flashy imports felt more sharply than in the Cotswolds. Bull Burford sits squarely between the two: a pet project of multi-millionaire PR guru - and Burford local - Matthew Freud. It could easily have been a case of style over substance, but Bull gets the important things right.

Every aspect of the hotel feels carefully, meticulously curated, from the pick-up in a Land Rover Defender to the generous spread of dining and drinking options - three restaurants and two bars in all. Wild is the most striking of them - a fully immersive chef’s-table experience where everything is cooked over coals right in front of you.

Wild uses the same ‘Cashmere Caveman’ WildKitchen setup made famous by Guy Ritchie’s supper clubs on his Wiltshire estate. The Beckhams have one too, in the grounds of their Chipping Norton farmhouse. In essence, it’s a small marquee. At its centre sits a rectangular copper counter for ten; in the middle, two fireboxes hold glowing coals. For most of the year, the sides are left open for a barbecue-style service, but on a crisp November night the tarps are lowered, turning it into a cosy canvas cocoon. Best of all, tucking your legs under the counter nestles them in the warm glow of the fire.

Chef Ben Chamberlain orchestrates an eleven-course menu that moves from mussel furikake popcorn to aged, smoked venison tartare with caviar. A superb piece of aged Dexter sirloin is slowly seared and smoked before our eyes; as its fat renders and drips, solar flares leap from the coals. Chamberlain has a gentle, informative manner, dispensing facts about chalk-stream trout as if hosting a backyard cookout. Later, he digs into his bag of tricks, using hot coals to sear bonito, served with an aromatic Indonesian butter sauce that fills the tent with lemongrass.

The wine pairings are excellent, keeping things lively with Pet Nats, nimble whites and chilled reds. For the finale, Chamberlain lifts another glowing coal and uses it to scorch the top of a baked Alaska - a theatrical finish that sends us rolling back to our room happy and full. Outside of private chefs, supper clubs or an invitation from David and Victoria, there’s nothing quite like this anywhere else in the UK. Just prepare to leave a little smoky.

Wild at Bull Burford is an intimate open fire restaurant tucked into the estate’s sunken courtyard, offering a tasting experience unlike anything else in the Cotswolds. The space feels like a cosy safari tent, warm and atmospheric, with one central communal table wrapped around a fire pit that glows throughout the evening. Guests gather around the flames as chefs cook over live fire just inches away, creating an immersive dining experience where the theatre of cooking is part of the pleasure.

Chef Ben Chamberlain leads the experience with an 11-course tasting journey shaped by the raw power of fire. Every dish is kissed by smoke or embers, giving the menu a depth and character that transforms even the simplest ingredients. The result is a series of bold, seasonal plates that showcase craftsmanship, creativity and a deep respect for produce.

Expect dishes such as popped corn with fermented chilli, pumpkin from the garden, chalk stream trout with artichoke and jalapeno, venison with honey jam, aged sirloin cooked over embers, and an Alaska apple with navel orange and rice. The menu evolves constantly depending on ingredients and Ben’s inspiration.

The setting is as memorable as the food. Canvas drapes, soft lighting and the central fire create an intimate mood as the evening unfolds. It is relaxed yet theatrical, making it ideal for food lovers, special occasions or anyone seeking a dining experience rooted in nature and elemental cooking. Organic produce and sustainable sourcing underpin the entire concept, reinforcing Wild’s commitment to quality and the land around it.

For a tasting menu that pairs refined cooking with the magic of live flame, Wild at Bull Burford is a destination worth travelling for.