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What used to be Bonds is now Marco Pierre White territory – his name is atop the menu and "giant indulgent images" of the man himself cover one wall of the dining room. But for all the bravado, once you're seated in a burgundy leather chair you can expect "warm, professional service" and a safe menu full of throwbacks – think prawn cocktail, shepherd's pie and sherry trifle. Readers have eaten well here, although we found it rather mixed – from an underpowered smoked mackerel brandade to delicate fish pie, buttery comfort food loaded with good things. Elsewhere, Angus rib-eye is richly anointed ?with deep-fried oysters, tangy bordelaise butter and thick, crunchy chips, while golden Cambridge burnt cream with shortbread makes a faultless finale. Wheeler's trump card is ultimately its mix of lavish interiors and supremely cosseting ambience, which may ?make you forget the kitchen's shortcomings.
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