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This “consistently fabulous” Glasgow institution is now well into its fifth decade and remains synonymous with “pretty, delicate plates of contemporary Scottish food” – although it manages to sidestep most of the tartan clichés along the way. The menu lists plenty of indigenous provisions with sound regional provenance, but there’s no ‘Brigadoon beef with a Rob Roy roulade’ or other such kitsch. Instead, look out for dishes such as seared West Coast scallops with squid, seaweed and malt crumb, Fife woodpigeon with baked beetroots, bramble gel, vanilla, peanut and cocoa or lemon and chocolate ganache with brown-bread ice cream and hazelnut crumble. The “lovely” ground-floor restaurant is quite pricey, but you can eat more affordably in the upstairs brasserie – think haggis with neeps ‘n’ tatties or Shetland mussels steamed in garlicky, creamy broth. Sunday lunches and theatre menus pull the crowds, and the wine list is one of Scotland’s finest. “It will forever be one of my favourites”, chimes a fan.
0141 334 5007
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