In other hands, the task of opening three restaurants in three months, with a fourth on the horizon, might look a tall one, but Three Darlings is a testament to Jason Atherton’s enduring creativity.
Tucked away down a pedestrian side street, veiled by palm trees, it could easily be missed by those swept along in the bustling crowds of Pavilion Road. Inside, however, there’s a homely warmth that invites you to linger, especially if you snag one of the rather ingenious, half booths set into the staircase. Sitting side-by-side, we have a front row seat to the open kitchen where chefs move in calm, synchronised precision. Slick, white marbling, dusty pink seating, and heavy-grained wood accents strike the perfect balance between trendy and timeless; whilst a cocktail bar, restaurant, and an al fresco terrace solidify Three Darlings as a spot for all occasions.
The menu feels like an extension of the setting: comforting yet polished. While it ostensibly leans British, there’s a worldly influence at play. The nduja Cacklebean egg is a highlight, almost too perfectly round for your classic scotch egg, with a blazing orange, gooey yolk, that oozes into a pool of smoky piquillo pepper sauce. It’s indulgent, bold, and a fitting introduction to the evening.
With so many dishes to choose from, decision paralysis could easily strike. But trust us, diving into the small plates is the way to go. A lightly charred octopus tentacle arrives with a silky swirl of butter bean aioli, whilst decadent parmesan and leek ravioli in nutty brown butter are brightened by a squeeze of Amalfi lemon. While the menu trends towards elegance, there’s room for heartier fare too. A Wagyu sausage roll feels at first out of place, devoid of any subtlety, but that perfect lattice of golden, flaky pastry, and meaty, herb-flecked filling, is pure comfort.
Dessert brings its own twists. An eyebrow-raising combination of soft serve ice cream with caviar may not sound like a likely duo, but frankly, it’s nothing short of genius. Expertise from neighbours Ice Cream Union means the ice cream is seriously good – so push any thought of Mr Whippy from mind – and pairs astonishingly well with the briny fish roe and woody hazelnut oil.
Atherton’s passion for wine shines through the drinks menu, with a thoughtfully curated list organised by price point. For those seeking a deeper dive, a visit to Mom & Pop’s wine cellar reveals a selection of fine wines with heftier price tags.
Despite the heavy footfall of Pavilion Road, Three Darlings manages to embrace the atmosphere of a true, neighbourhood spot. It’s as glamorous as it is welcoming, and with so many dining options you’ll want to visit again and again.