Charles II, whose coat of arms still adorns the fireplace, is only one in a long line of royals who frequented this country house in its former hunting lodge incarnation. The formal air remains today -- think starched linen and black tie service -- whilst cooking, too, is suitably elegant. Memorable dishes include a new potato soup with smoked haddock and truffles and scallops with braised courgettes. Look out for local game and wild mushrooms in season.