We were very impressed with our previous visit to The Plough, WHICH IS IN LONGPARISH NEAR ANDOVER AND NOWHERE NEAR WALLINGFORD, and we had the opportunity to show the rest of the family why, especially as James Durrant's Great British Menu winner was now on the tasting menu. The six of us were seated at the big table in the bay window, probably the best table in the house, and looked after by the excellent front of house manager, Jack. We took our time over our aperos, but this clearly did not faze the kitchen as it can at other venues, and when the little coffee cups of pumpkin soup were brought up we saw at once that we would certainly enjoy the tasting menu again. The soup was more velouté than consommé, with a lovely colour and a beautiful nose of chestnut, the two elements combining brilliantly to make a sweet, rich and, above all, delicious amuse-bouche. This was followed by local smoked ham hock, shredded and paired with very good crispy shallot, super truffle mayo and delightfully light home-made black pudding beignets, all making for a very pretty picture on the plate. The Scottish salmon on the next dish had been browned on top and there was more than a hint of the sub-continent with onion bhaji, curried lentils and a fantastic spiced parsnip purée, which chef presumably did not learn from Jason Atherton. Top-notch, and the highlight was still to come! The Blitz Spirit veal dish was simply stupendous, arranged on large platters for three to share and providing very generous, serve-yourself portions of rose veal loin with a tasty crust, amazing veal blanquette which would stop the show in any restaurant you care to name, terrifc tarragon in the casserole, perfect sweetbreads, and a selection of mushrooms and beans completing the line-up of wonderfully matched tastes and textures. It was not difficult to understand why it won such praise from the TV judges. The pre-dessert successfully combined the tasks of cleansing the palate and acting as the first sweet dish with a mixture of English fizz (Danebury, just down the road from the restaurant), blackberry sorbet, apple cubes and blackberry foam, before we launched into another satisfying, both to the eye and on the palate, and for that matter in quantity, dessert made up of scrumptious honeycomb which was matched by the dark chocolate pavé and completed with local vanilla ice cream. Nevertheless, we did still manage the mignardises, mince pie swirls on chocolate, fruit jelly cubes and chocolate fudge. The final trump card was the bill, which, including wine and completely discretionary service, was very modest by London standards. James Durrant continues to demonstrate his talents, and we are hoping that he might find it rewarding to branch out into Winchester, where some other names have decided to set out their stalls and attracted the customers.