Ian Bates claims it took him six years to find the right restaurant, but this bright, unfussy eaterie, all bare wood tables & floorboards, is easy to be in & the food as intrepid & unpretentious as its surroundings. Recent Sunday lunch offerings – deep-fried pork belly with lambs lettuce, apple sauce & fennel, or roast leg of lamb with creamy gratin dauphinoise, aubergine & pesto, followed by rice pudding with poached quince – were well executed. It’s all exceptional value, at £15 for three courses, while dinner (£20/£25 for two/three courses) offers similarly clean flavours. Mussel & saffron risotto, & roast partridge, pommes anna, beetroot & wild mushrooms are among the choices, delivered with efficiency, & a wine list provides the right bottle for a reasonable price. Put it all together & you have a place that’s very easy to like.