Like The Avengers of London hospitality, the Spiteri family have quite the collective resume. Jon Spiteri is a partner in St. JOHN and Sessions Art Club, Melanie Arnold co-founded Rochelle Canteen, and daughter Molly leads business development at Koya. While they all bring their own superpowers to The Latimer, it is sons Lorcan and Fin who are steering the ship - food and drinks respectively - having traded their beloved barge restaurant Caravel for something a little less buoyant.
Residing on a quiet patch of west London, the striking corner pub is perfectly positioned for the evening sun. Out front, a sea of unbuttoned collars and loosened ties is gulping down pints, and while it’s tempting to join them, we squeeze through to the rear dining area. White tablecloths, subdued lighting and a succinct three-course menu gently shift the tone from raucous boozer to gastropub; one sip of a superb dry daiquiri and we’re away.
The Spiteri signature is at play here: seasonal produce, confident cooking, and well-judged restraint. We merrily bounce between pillowy milk buns and pleasantly punchy pickles, before a couple of pork belly skewers demand our attention. Braised in cider, each bite is sticky, charred and fatty in all the right places, served with a slightly sweet apple sauce to cut through the butteriness. Equally faultless are a stack of crispy haddock bites, dialled up with masala spices and dunked in creamy tartare. Spend some time on the starters - it’s where Lorcan’s playful style shines brightest.
A fresh, summery tagliatelle quietly steals the spotlight. Composed of al dente courgette, creamy stracciatella and citrusy olive oil, each element finds its rightful place on the plate - effortless, wholesome and fine-tuned. The balancing act wavers slightly with a slow-cooked ox tail - our expectations for a rich, hearty braise are met with something that hangs on the more subtle end of the scale. It’s an anomaly, though, and the deep chocolate mousse that follows is neatly enlivened with plump segments of blood orange.
Between sun-soaked pints, clean-cut cocktails, and deftly poised plates, you’d struggle to not have a lovely time at The Latimer. Much like the food, the service here is comforting and considered, and while we might not carry a Spiteri-level CV, we felt right at home in the family pub.