The Hound

JKS’ ever-expanding restaurant empire heads southwest with this stylish British gastropub on Chiswick High Street. Passion and Great British pounds have been poured into the former police station’s restoration to create an upmarket pub for Chiswick’s well-heeled residents. It’s pubby, for sure, with wood panelled walls, studded banquets and a wood-burning fireplace, but peppered with luxe finishes like parquet flooring and – the pièce de résistance – a gorgeous, light-filled courtyard in the middle of the dining room with a retractable glass roof. It’s lovely, and locals are lapping up the chance to dine semi-alfresco when we visit on a balmy summer’s evening, rooftop open to the sky.

Michelin-starred chef James Knappett and executive chef John Sparks have curated a surprisingly traditional menu offering, although it's certainly not without clever, playful twists. We start with one of its signatures, a golden black pudding Scotch egg with a perfectly-soft yolk, served with a sweet, chutney-esque dipping sauce that cuts through the richness of deep-fried sausage meat. Beer-battered fish and chips are masterfully cooked and comically enormous. The batter is like glass and encases supremely soft white fish, while punchy homemade tartare and well-seasoned mushy peas are both excellent. There are too many chips, but that's by the by. Purists will fall for its sticky toffee pudding which is soaked in lip-smackingly sweet butterscotch sauce, but fans of fruitier desserts should order the trifle, a retro take replete with jelly, piped cream and vanilla-spiced custard.

Prices are steep, even for Chiswick and especially for pub grub, but we expect as much in this area and the cooking is genuinely delicious. Staff are friendly and attentive, and that light-filled glasshouse is sure to make The Hound one of the most sought-after spots during the warmer months and beyond.

Inside a storied Chiswick building dating back to 1872 lies The Hound, a warm, nostalgic pub concept serving modern yet hearty takes on British classics.

Formerly The Crown pub, and long before that a Victorian police station (some of The Hound’s private dining rooms still display some exposed brick from the station’s prison cells), the building is historic, cavernous, yet instantly homely. Wood panelling lines the walls and there is ample seating on plush stools around the bar, while emerald-toned wallpaper and wildflower bouquets dominate the decor in the more intimate private rooms. For a lighter feel, try the semi-private outdoor courtyard space, complete with a retractable roof.

In charge of the food offering are John Sparks of JKS Restaurant Group (the team behind, among other mainstays, the BAO chain and the Cadogan Arms) and James Knappett of the two Michelin-starred Kitchen Table in Fitzrovia. The menu offers all that you might expect from a British pub - here, predictably, is beer-battered cod, ham, egg, and chips, and chicken and leek pie - alongside options you’d be hard-pressed to find in your average boozer, such as a wagyu hot dog with sauerkraut and charcuterie sauce. There’s also a ‘Feast’ set menu served family style, with dedicated vegetarian alternatives - choose from whole roasted sea bass, braised lamb wellington, or summer vegetable tart for your main.

The kitchen also offers a range of inventive bar snacks between lunch and dinner service. These include black pudding scotch egg, buttermilk fried chicken with blue cheese sauce, or Carlingford rock oysters. Wash it all down with house cocktails including a spicy peach Margarita and rum-based ‘Calypso’ Old Fashioned, a non-alcoholic ‘No Groni’ or tropical spritz, or a glass from the extensive wine list that includes an enviable range of English sparkling varieties.