The Hero of Maida

Silver Award
££££
Gastropub

The Hero of Maida
The Hero of Maida
The Hero of Maida
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SquareMeal Review of The Hero of Maida

Silver Award

Henry Harris’s makeover of this much-loved Maida Vale local (formerly The Truscott Arms) is a boon to the area. Here is a chef who really knows his oignons, and the elegant upstairs room certainly has a smart restaurant-style vibe, although the revamp has kept the heart of the business as a proper pub, complete with a beer garden. A splendid square zinc-topped bar dominates the rich blue boozing space downstairs, with an array of boards and jars nestling among the beer pumps for those who fancy a snack with their pint – although the full menu is available to allcomers, upstairs and down.

 

Harris’s cooking has always leant towards ‘Franglais’, and he’s a master of the style – witness grilled onglet (charred on the outside but served classically rare) with bone-marrow butter adding a sophisticated gloss. Elsewhere, sweet black bacon is layered atop generous slivers of perfectly pink calf’s liver on a pillow of proper mash, while a lovely chunk of pearlescent cod is simply paired with brown butter and capers. Puds such as lemon posset, poached peach and chocolate pots tend to stay this side of the Channel, and they’re spot-on for those who still have room. 

 

As befits a really good hostelry, the mainly French wine list has plenty of choice by the glass, but there are some serious bottles for those looking to push the boat out.  Lots of customers, however, stick to pub drinks – there’s an impressive line-up of lagers and ales on draught, as well as some decent cider.

 

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Gastropub
Ambience
Lively, Traditional
Food Occasions
Sunday roast
Alfresco And Views
Beer garden, Outside seating
Special Features
Dog friendly
People
Child friendly, Group dining [8+], Special occasions

Location for The Hero of Maida

55 Shirland Road, London, W9 2JD

020 3960 9109

Website

Opening Times

Mon-Sat 11am-11.30pm Sun 12N-10.30pm

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