Pretty floral prints, group-friendly menus, sharp cocktails, neo-soul on the speakers: The Folly, like its Drake & Morgan siblings, wears its party credentials well. What’s less obvious, until you sit down, is how seriously the kitchen takes its food.
It’s still great for drinks-led celebrations – we spied two brunch parties on our lunchtime visit – but this is the kind of dining that supports most occasions. Amble through the lush floral archway across from Monument Station, and it’s a maximalist mix of foliage and occasional theatrics. To one side, a private space is screened by orange curtains, its bar and communal table guarded by a near life-sized leopard statue. Downstairs, there’s an atmospheric bar and events space, and outside, cocktail tables are stacked with blankets, primed to warm the post-work crowd.
The main dining room is the heart of the operation. Here, backed by faux olive trees and cosy animal hides, we start with a Cashmere Collins: gin, subtle lychee, caramel and fiery ginger ale, paired with a generous portion of blistered, properly salted padron peppers. Prawn lollipops – whole, skewered, cloaked in an almost beer-batter-like crispy shell – land lacquered with aromatic gochujang.
Autumn brings The Folly’s bigger instincts to the fore. There’s Wagyu sausage with mash and caramelised onion gravy, and stargazy fish pie, alongside a roster of 21-day-aged steaks (including one that’s a metre long). We opt instead for burrata and truffle tortellini: neat little parcels of egg pasta bobbing in a creamy broth, rich with Parmesan and studded with mushrooms.
The duck salad – a longstanding signature – remains a steadfast order. The duck is crispy, almost crackling-level and generously portioned, with mooli and radish adding plenty more crunch. The hoisin occasionally feels heavy-handed, but that sweet, savoury richness makes it an easy favourite.
Satisfying cooking, well-made cocktails, and staff happy to crack a joke between expertly helping you navigate the menu always mean a good meal out. Naturally, central London prices apply, but all combined, The Folly doesn’t rely on quirky accents and location to do the heavy lifting; the menu is well-judged, and the experience follows.