The Fat Badger Notting Hill

Dinner at The Fat Badger starts less like dinner, and more like a night out. A bouncer greets us at the door - more friendly than your average Lloyds Bar bruiser - and, confirming that we are expected, we’re given directions: straight on, past the Canteen kitchen, turn left, up the stairs, then up some more stairs. He sees confusion in our eyes. ‘Don’t worry, someone will meet you.’

The Fat Badger was rumoured to be invite-only. It isn’t, but you can see why people thought so. It feels exclusive and clubby. Staff are warm and chatty, keen to make you feel like a regular. The lighting is spot on - that flattering glow that makes a midweek dinner feel like an occasion. And the room’s a looker: distressed wooden wall panels; bundles of dried flowers on the walls; flickering candles. Copper pans hang from the ceiling, framing the open kitchen. It’s beautiful, cool, understated - the Grace Kelly of dining rooms.

Dinner is a single set menu, with only a choice between three mains before the snacks start rolling in. A Maldon oyster topped with apple granita arrives first, followed by a wonderful, crumbling soda bread with a hefty smear of salted butter, alongside a bowl of soup to help warm the bones. Then comes The Fat Badger chicken wing - deboned, stuffed with chicken mousseline, roasted and glazed with hot sauce. It’s a magnificent little thing, but like most chicken wings, gone too soon.

A beautifully cooked plate of wild mallard follows, lean and meaty, served alongside a rich, silky liver parfait, celeriac puree, radicchio and hasselback potatoes. God knows how long this kitchen spends deboning, stuffing and hasselbacking, but we salute the effort. Desserts come as a duo - a burnt cream and an apple pie with custard - both excellent.

One or two things didn’t quite hit the mark as they might have done (a prawn-and-celeriac taco didn’t quite gel for us), but The Fat Badger gets the important stuff right: the food’s hearty but made with real care, the service warm, the room gorgeous. It’s proof that great restaurants aren’t just about what’s on the plate - they’re about atmosphere, generosity and good company.

Tucked above a casual café on Portobello Road, The Fat Badger offers a refined interpretation of the British gastropub. Once accessible by invitation only, it has since opened its doors to the wider public, revealing a dining space that balances understated charm with a quietly confident culinary approach. Set across two floors, the restaurant combines wood-panelled interiors, candlelit tables and considered design details to create a space that feels both relaxed and discreetly elegant.

At the heart of the offering is a four-course set menu, curated by George Williams, formerly of River Café, and Ballymaloe-trained chef Beth O’Brien. Dishes change regularly according to the season, but the tone remains consistent: thoughtful, ingredient-led cooking with an emphasis on flavour and simplicity. Previous menus have included nettle soup with soda bread, lobster tempura served in a fine sliver of celeriac, and beef fillet with hasselback potatoes and bearnaise. Desserts are often lighter in tone, such as strawberry and basil sorbet, though richer options like house-made doughnuts with apple crumble ice cream also feature.

The bar, located on the ground floor, maintains a more informal feel. It serves a concise selection of cocktails, wines and local ales, alongside bar snacks that mirror the comfort of the main menu. Arancini, courgette fries and other seasonal small plates are available for those not seeking a full meal but still wishing to enjoy the setting.

While the fixed menu and price point position The Fat Badger as a more considered choice, the experience remains approachable. Service is attentive yet unobtrusive, and the pace is unhurried. The result is a restaurant that feels well suited to both casual celebrations and quieter evenings, offering a modern take on the British dining room that is grounded in quality, character and ease.