If ever a place had too many decent restaurants for the neighbourhood, it’s Petersham: the Nurseries at one end, Petersham Hotel and The Bingham at the other. The local (ex) pub in the middle – a “terrific newcomer” – has now followed suit, with 2010 Roux Scholar Kenneth Culhane running the kitchen. The room, with its big bar and wooden furniture, retains a gastropub look, but the cooking outstrips its surroundings and the slightly overenthusiastic service. Culhane uses top-class ingredients, many sourced as locally as the kitchen garden or nearby woods, to prepare classically based French cooking with an occasional Japanese twist. Richly flavoured charred mackerel is balanced by kombu braised daikon, ginger and Champagne; venison comes with Chinese broccoli and tangy lime jus; and semolina gnocchi with mousserons and fresh almonds graces the vegetarian menu. Alluring puddings (pineapple and brown-butter financier) and a well-picked, ungreedy wine list score highly too.
Does The Dysart Petersham have a Michelin star?
The Dysart Petersham has one Michelin star.
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0208 9408 8005
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We have only gone to The Dysart in perfect weather, those days of an English spring or autumn when the sun is warm but there is a pleasant nip in the air. On such days, it is difficult to imagine anywhere better near London than the Dysart. Its garden, although near a road, is sufficiently enclosed by vegetation to create a totally rural but sophisticated setting. This is not in any way to belittle the cuisine as that is faultless. Flavours are expertly combined with imagination and great flair. The presentation and the colours are those of a restaurant of the highest standards. The ambiance and the hospitality are closer to that which one would enjoy as the guest of a gracious and generous host. Although there has been an inn on this site since the 18th Century, the Dysart is pure Arts and Crafts and charmingly so. The interior retains the feel but without the sometimes excessive and oppressive patterns of that movement. There is good taste throughout....and in every possible connotation of the term.
The Dysart is not inexpensive and your costs for two with service will be about a hundred pounds for lunch. We have not been for dinner. Nevertheless, I still give this restaurant five stars for value for money. The Dysart is not lunch but an culinary experience and more besides. It will leave you glad to be alive and with a spring in your step. Few restaurants achieve that and fewer still with such effortless elegance and charm. Superb.
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