The Dysart Petersham

If ever a place had too many decent restaurants for the neighbourhood, it’s Petersham: the Nurseries at one end, Petersham Hotel and The Bingham at the other. The local (ex) pub in the middle – a “terrific newcomer” – has now followed suit, with 2010 Roux Scholar Kenneth Culhane running the kitchen. The room, with its big bar and wooden furniture, retains a gastropub look, but the cooking outstrips its surroundings and the slightly overenthusiastic service. Culhane uses top-class ingredients, many sourced as locally as the kitchen garden or nearby woods, to prepare classically based French cooking with an occasional Japanese twist. Richly flavoured charred mackerel is balanced by kombu braised daikon, ginger and Champagne; venison comes with Chinese broccoli and tangy lime jus; and semolina gnocchi with mousserons and fresh almonds graces the vegetarian menu. Alluring puddings (pineapple and brown-butter financier) and a well-picked, ungreedy wine list score highly too.