The Dysart Petersham

If ever a place had too many decent restaurants for the neighbourhood, it’s Petersham: the Nurseries at one end, Petersham Hotel and The Bingham at the other. The local (ex) pub in the middle – a “terrific newcomer” – has now followed suit, with 2010 Roux Scholar Kenneth Culhane running the kitchen. The room, with its big bar and wooden furniture, retains a gastropub look, but the cooking outstrips its surroundings and the slightly overenthusiastic service. Culhane uses top-class ingredients, many sourced as locally as the kitchen garden or nearby woods, to prepare classically based French cooking with an occasional Japanese twist. Richly flavoured charred mackerel is balanced by kombu braised daikon, ginger and Champagne; venison comes with Chinese broccoli and tangy lime jus; and semolina gnocchi with mousserons and fresh almonds graces the vegetarian menu. Alluring puddings (pineapple and brown-butter financier) and a well-picked, ungreedy wine list score highly too.

Any foodie worth their salt can appreciate the importance of provenance for any meaningful dining experience. The Dysart Petersham’s efforts towards sustainable sourcing, low-waste cooking, and supporting British producers continue to bear fruit. The Dysart’s nature-conscious ethos runs through every classically executed dish, ensuring that quality seasonal produce takes pride of place. 

Located inside a 1904 example of Tudor revival architecture with views over Richmond Park, the restaurant has a distinctively English bucolic character. Inside, the dining room has retained its original flagstone flooring and lead-lined windows but has now gained an antique grand piano, which takes center stage for Sunday recitals and classical music. The natural oak tables and accompanying wicker chairs are uncharacteristically well-spaced for London restaurants. The steadily blazing fire and candlelit tables leave a rather homely impression. 

Under the charge of Barny Taylor and head chef Kenneth Culhane, the Michelin star menu draws inspiration from the slow food movement – a grassroots not-for-profit organization that champions local supply chains producing food to be consumed with appreciation. Culhane’s upbringing on a farm in Kerry instilled an enthusiasm for traditional animal husbandry and sustainable practices. Offerings include English red leg partridge, Cornish turbot, hand-dived Orkney scallops, and rare English truffle. Executed according to traditional culinary techniques, Culhane’s team offers a 9-course tasting menu that delivers satisfying dishes often with some Japanese influence. Also on offer is a 3-course menu and a garden menu that highlights the best of local produce, wild herbs, and responsibly foraged plants.   

The wine list pays close attention to the approaches and standards of winemakers, listing vintages from well-known names alongside a variety of British wines and those that have been unjustly overlooked. Several biodynamic, organic, and natural wines make an appearance on the list providing the opportunity to form pairings in both classic and unusual ways.