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Now firmly bedded in behind a huge glass frontage in the ultra-modern Myhotel complex, this idiosyncratic eatery continues to wow Brighton’s creatively minded foodies with its deft and complex take on Indian cuisine. Chef Alun Sperring (ex-Cinnamon Club in London) has drafted in a team of chefs from across the subcontinent to give the menu a strong regional bias, while his wife Dawn is a friendly presence out front – where splashes of colour, fairy lights and shelves of provisions add extra zest to the canteen-style dining room. Signature dishes such as red tandoori sea bream, oxtail Madras and ‘nagaland’ pork (crispy belly pieces in a fiery hot-and-sour curry laced with habanero chillis) remain as fragrantly enticing as ever, although it’s all about freshness and attention to detail – from potent homemade green chilli pickle to the last-minute sprinkling of perfumed rose water over mutton biryani. Sunday brunch is family buffet fuelled by Bloody Marys and Bavarian beers, while on Monday lunches are dedicated to the ‘king thali’ (£10). Punchy New World wines stand up well to the vibrantly spiced food. Visit the CP food cart parked outside for takeaway boxes.
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