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Housed in the former Home for Destitute Children (circa 1888), this beautifully appointed restaurant pays homage to the building’s more recent role as an art school, with commissioned works by former students covering the walls – although it’s the food that has readers (and ourselves) reaching for the superlatives. Much of the credit must go to chef/director Paul Askew, who arrived here following an 11-year stint at the nearby London Carriage Works. Seasonal canapés and a glass of Heidsieck Champagne kick off the ‘menu excellence’, before a procession of dishes notable for their robust and often challenging flavours: cured sea trout with sea herbs, samphire, pickled cucumber, lovage dressing and onion crisp; milk-fed veal cutlet, shin and marrow bone accompanied by girolles, charred onions, parsley root and heritage carrots; lime tart with a caramel chocolate ‘chouquette’ and Earl Grey sorbet. There are fine British cheeses too, served with quince and truffle-scented Two Liverpool Cathedral’s honey. Add vegan, vegetarian and pescatarian menus – plus an authoritative list of international wines – and it’s easy to see why this place is turning heads.
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