Starling

It’s not often that a Great British Menu-certified chef rolls into a small town like Esher, but this quaint Surrey town has been blessed with new bistro Starling, from GBM 2023 finalist Nick Beardshaw. Having been Tom Kerridge’s right hand man for the best part of a decade at The Hand and Flowers, The Coach and Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, Beardshaw arrives in Esher for his first solo venture with serious pedigree, and no shortage of expectation.

You can’t miss Starling’s royal blue frontage on the Esher high street, and inside, the restaurant ticks a lot of modern bistro boxes. Beardshaw mans the pass in the open kitchen, as his team smoothly cranks through the gears of lunch service. The interiors are stylish but unassuming - wood panelling and parquet floor are lifted by shades of blue, from cobalt banquettes to cornflower on the ceiling. A line of hammered metal starlings hang from the ceiling as pendant lights, mirroring wall paintings that show birds in flight against a cloudy sky.

There’s an obvious metaphor here. Beardshaw’s own career is ready to take flight, released from under the wing of longtime mentor Kerridge. The menu, though, still feels in two minds. Two of Beardshaw’s GBM dishes are present - his banquet-winning ‘A Moon Shaped Pool’ and ‘Balloon Girl’ dessert, a tribute to the Banksy mural of the same name. Both are good dishes (the former is excellent) but they feel incongruous against a menu of hearty, elevated bistro cooking.

The best things on this menu feel like a continuation of Beardshaw’s previous cooking, but lifted and lightened for a new crowd. A crispy hash brown topped with a smooth layer of steak tartare and neat dabs of whipped bone marrow is exemplary, delivering on the high menu anticipation. A neat chicken ballotine has been executed with skill, and there’s no rocket science in pairing it with clotted cream mash and charred corn, but it does make for an absolutely delicious dish. This main is hiding on a £25 set lunch menu, which is probably the best deal in all of Surrey and then some.

One of the best dishes is saved for last - a simple but superb chocolate ice cream with a drizzle of good olive oil and a crack of salt. Starling is at its best when Beardshaw is adding his own twist to classic, comforting flavours. The familiarity of his GBM past might be helpful in the short term, but we think this Starling is ready to let go of the past and take flight.

Chef Nick Beardshaw's debut restaurant, Starling, has quickly established itself as one of Surrey's leading dining destinations, earning a Michelin star for its refined modern British cooking. Located on Esher High Street, the intimate restaurant showcases Beardshaw's ingredient-led approach, developed over more than a decade working within Tom Kerridge's restaurant group, alongside influences from his acclaimed television appearances.

The menu focuses on carefully sourced British produce, with dishes that balance technical precision and creativity. Expect seasonal tasting and à la carte menus that celebrate the best ingredients from across the UK, from exceptional seafood and sustainably reared meat to vegetables sourced from trusted growers. Beardshaw is known for creating dishes that are both visually striking and deeply flavourful, combining modern techniques with a strong sense of place.

The restaurant's kitchen works closely with specialist suppliers and producers, while the wine programme has been thoughtfully curated to complement the food offering. Alongside classic regions and established producers, guests can expect a selection that champions quality-focused winemakers from across the UK and beyond.

Despite its Michelin-star credentials, Starling maintains a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The dining room seats around 40 guests, creating an intimate setting where service is personal and attentive. A handful of counter seats overlooking the kitchen offer diners the opportunity to watch the team at work, adding an interactive element to the experience.

The restaurant takes its name from the starling bird, whose famous murmuration patterns are a symbol of teamwork and collaboration, principles that underpin Beardshaw's approach to both cooking and hospitality. The result is a restaurant that combines ambitious cuisine with genuine warmth, making Starling a compelling destination for diners seeking one of Surrey's most exciting Michelin-starred experiences.