10 July 2016
From previous reviews I could hardly believe that I was eating at the same restaurant, lunchtime early July 2016.
I had heard about Fergus Henderson and so had a reasonable idea of what to expect, or so I thought. To begin, pollock served cold was unexpected (hot would have been preferable and being such an economic and unexciting fish in itself, it needs to be made interesting). Well they tried, but completely over-powered the dish with garlic in the aioli, to the extent that just a couple of mouthfuls gave my taste buds a zap over-lasting welcome. I was quickly offered an alternative and asked for the Kohlrabi. Simple but now heading to the opposite extreme; rather plain - claimed to be "the most refreshing starter" with capers, but given the fact that I truly had no more than 6 small pieces on my plate, they struggled to lift this boring dish which could have been better had it been generously drenched with herbs and extra capers. Bread and butter was fairly good; my main was completely lack lustre. Hake (served on the bone but the tail end, so not the fleshiest piece) didn’t even smell that appetising when I cut into it, and lacked seasoning too. The white beans with sea purslane again were anything but flavourful, cabbage was fine. My partner was quite under-whelmed with cold egg, ham and beans starter, describing the rabbit as rather ‘monochrome’, but we ploughed on. One be-spectacled staff member was an utter delight and had it not been for him and some of his colleagues, then the temptation may have been to ‘cut and run’ settling for starters and drinks. To finish we ordered Madeleines, having watched a plate waft by, which were cooked whilst you wait, so these just had to be good, didn’t they? To my great relief they were, but all too late to even approach redemption during a highly disappointing experience. Wine except for the blanc de blanc does not deserve mention. Not a vastly expensive meal overall, but £130 for two, mid-week lunch for the quality of ingredients and sub-standard dishes, the meal seemed exorbitant. I left over 50% of my main course - understandably we were now pariah’s to the staff, but one brave soul removed my plate in silence - I refrained from comment too, having given gentle feedback on my starter.
I’d rather spend about the same money for food with real punchy flavours like Eric Chavot or Barra Fina.
Nothing wrong with rustic style, simple, low-cost ingredients prepared with care, but this missed on many levels for all courses except one, all of which were rather one-dimensional. Just a bad day at the office, or does this place sometimes slip to depths that most restaurants would never ever want to reach?