In Canton–Pontcanna you'll find Sonder Bar & Bistro, a modern neighbourhood restaurant built around seasonal cooking, thoughtful sourcing and a big local connection. The restaurant is the first independent venture from chef Jake Lewis, who opened Sonder at just 29 after building his reputation as executive chef at Pasture Restaurant Cardiff and its sister sites in Bristol and Birmingham. While it may be his first restaurant under his own name, it is far from his first opening. This project actually marks the seventh launch of his career.
The all-day space evolves as the hours tick by, from brunch to lunch to dinner and drinks with a versatile curation that promotes sharing between friends and trying a bit of everything. The menu is seasonal and ingredient-led, dividing up dishes by their origin. While plates change regularly, a few guest favourites have quickly earned a permanent place on the menu. Tuna tacos have become one of the restaurant’s most talked-about small plates, for example, while the beef tournedos - affectionately nicknamed “the Tornado” - has developed something of a cult following among regulars.
To start, the opening section of the menu offers diners a selection of tasty bites to whet their appetites such as mussels on toast, a surf and turf rösti and those much-loved tuna tacos. Starters include trout ceviche and crispy lamb lettuce wraps, alongside a classic beef tartare. From there the menu expands into larger dishes organised by land and sea. Think Porthilly mussels, line-caught skrei cod and a mixed seafood grill, showcasing the restaurant’s close relationships with seafood suppliers.
Meat dishes look like Welsh lamb mixed grill, sirloin on the bone and dry-aged fillet, sitting alongside a crispy stuffed chicken schnitzel, while a butternut squash cannelloni offers a vegetarian alternative. Sides remain simple and well judged: skinny fries, wedge salad and brown butter new potatoes.
The drinks programme is overseen by Alex Mills, formerly of Lab 22, who was named Best Bartender in the UK Top 50 Cocktail Bars list in 2018. His cocktails, wine list and bar offering help shape the evening atmosphere as the restaurant moves from daytime dining into its livelier night-time vibe.