SquareMeal Review of Serge

Silver Award

SERGE HAS PERMANENTLY CLOSED

Located inside the achingly cool Mandrake Hotel, Serge has benefited from an update less than a year after opening. Not only has the ‘et le phoque’ been thankfully minimised in its branding, but the menu has been reinvigorated, moving from broadly French to broadly Spanish, with a strong emphasis on the Mediterranean roots of the chef.

 

The highly on-trend decor and soundtrack remain, yet despite this, staff are refreshingly friendly and unpretentious. Nonetheless, it is the food and drink that do the talking here. Diners get to choose from a well-conceived menu, conveniently divided into starters followed by earth, sea and land-based options. Almost everything we sampled sang. A plate of wonderfully moist jamón ibérico accompanied by pickled almonds set the bar high, but we were even more impressed by a dish of seared scallop served (in a flash of beautiful originality) with peach and artichoke. Duck breast teamed with cherry and endive showed similar flair over ingredient combination. Not everything pleased: a sea bream and pineapple ceviche was underwhelming; and the suckling pig lacked flavour. However, very fair pricing encourages diners to experiment.

 

Add to the mix a range of seasonal cocktails and an intelligently constructed wine list (from an ex-Clove Club sommelier) and there’s little not to like here. Take note, though: the toilets are almost impossible to find, situated outside the restaurant in the hotel’s labyrinthine basement.

 

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Good to know about Serge

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
Spanish
Ambience
Cool, Glamorous
Food Occasions
Breakfast
Alfresco And Views
Outside seating
People
Special occasions

Location for Serge

The Mandrake Hotel, 20-21 Newman Street, London, London, W1T 1PG

020 3146 8880

Website

Opening Times of Serge

Mon-Sun 7am-11am 6pm-10.30pm

Reviews of Serge

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