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The bar at Four Seasons’ latest London hotel occupies an august beaux arts-style building. It’s a striking setting, featuring a sunken lounge with marble and sculpted stucco, a magnificent glass dome and a grand piano. Ladies and gents of leisure come here for afternoon tea, flutes of fizz, or an aperitivo-hour Spritz. Alternatively, they could settle in for vintage spirits by the glass (1922 Croix de Salles Armagnac, perhaps) and bar snacks of vegetable tempura, mini lobster roll or foie gras terrine. The drama of The Rotunda’s high-backed bar, doors folded back reminiscent of a Japanese Shinto altar, is somewhat diluted by the monumental scale of the space it inhabits. Sit at the copper-topped bar for classic and modern fixes: the likes of Ivory (mezcal, Brazil nuts, bergamot oil, oolong tea and shiso leaf). The place was spookily quiet on a weekend evening, but this was soon after the launch.
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