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Following the trend pioneered by Heston Blumenthal at Bray and Rick Stein in Padstow, Simon Rogan is turning his own little corner of England into a self-styled foodie destination. The chocolate-box village of Cartmel is his chosen home patch, and Rogan & Co sets out to complement the world-class natural-born food served at nearby big sibling L'Enclume – although the forward-thinking dishes offered in this likeable dining room (think ancient beams, leather upholstery and neutral fabrics) stand up well in their own right. Starters of scallop mousse in a cabbage leaf with smoked eel and ‘wasabina’ oil or a pairing of duck sausage, Jerusalem artichoke and elderflowers prove the point, while mains are defined by the Cumbrian landscape and embellished with pickings from Rogan’s farm in Cartmel (‘Valley’ venison with preserved cherries and poached celeriac, for example). To conclude, iced apple with meadowsweet and rosehip is a picture-pretty countryside conceit. Snacks of, say, cod tongues with ramsons are bang on-trend, while the entertainingly annotated wine list offers a sound choice from around the globe.
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