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SquareMeal Review of Rogan & Co

Silver Award

It’s inevitable that Rogan & Co will always sit in the shadow of big brother L’Enclume, but don’t underestimate this Michelin-starred spot in the heart of Cartmel. More relaxed than its neighbour but a destination in its own right, Rogan & Co draws on the same powerhouse foundations: impeccable produce from Rogan’s Our Farm, a crack team of chefs and servers (many trained through his Kendal College academy), and an eye for detail that few restaurants in the UK can match.

The look mirrors L’Enclume too - slick but charmingly old-school, with timber beams and flagstone floors nodding to the building’s history. The main dining room feels perhaps a little spartan, but there are cosier nooks around the room available too.

Locally sourced ingredients take centre stage here, with plenty nurtured in the Cartmel Valley. Things kick off with a flurry of elegant snacks: a palate-prepping sip of tomato water and lovage oil; a dainty cheese scone with pickled allium cream; and a mushroom parfait sandwiched between mushroom powdered rye crackers - a bite that packs serious umami punch.

There’s some serious cooking going on here, spread across a chunky a la carte and a very good value set lunch menu. A crisp lamb fritter arrives nestled under ribbons of cucumber; then there’s butter-roasted skate wing with tangy ponzu and shrimp sauce; and a sharp little palate cleanser of courgette, apple and olive oil sorbet. They’re dishes that wouldn’t feel out of place at the three Michelin star restaurant up the road, which is high praise indeed.

Not everything lands - soda bread with trout pâté is tasty but awkward to eat, and a chocolate malt tart with cherry sorbet collapses into sloppy chaos after a few spoonfuls. The quality’s there, though; some dishes just feel under-tested.

Service is warm and slick, while the drinks list is particularly strong on low- and no-alcohol options (handy if you’re plotting a countryside walk afterwards). Michelin star aside, Rogan & Co is a Cartmel gem, and well worth a trip on its own.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisine
British, Modern European, Vegan friendly, Vegetarian friendly
Ambience
Cosy, Lively, Quiet conversation, Traditional, Widely spaced tables
Awards
One Michelin star
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Group dining [8+], Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating
Food Hygiene Rating 5 for Rogan & Co

About

Rogan & Co is a Michelin starred neighbourhood restaurant in the village of Cartmel, founded by Simon Rogan. Set within a fourteenth century riverside cottage beside the River Eea, the restaurant offers a seasonal British menu built around produce from the Lake District. It operates alongside Rogan’s other restaurants in Cartmel, offering a more relaxed setting with the same commitment to sourcing and precision.

The space is calm and understated, with original stone walls, exposed beams and polished wooden floors. The dining room is divided into smaller sections, with tables arranged to provide a sense of privacy. Local artwork and minimal decoration keep the focus on the food. An open kitchen pass allows a view into the kitchen, where plates are prepared and finished.

The menu is offered as a set lunch and dinner format. Guests select three dishes from a concise seasonal list, with snacks served at the start and petit fours to finish. The structure is clear and flexible, allowing for a full experience without the length of a traditional tasting menu. Ingredients come largely from Rogan’s own farm nearby, alongside other producers in Cumbria and the North West.

Dishes change often but may include a tartlet with cod’s roe and pickled radish, smoked eel with celeriac and apple, or Herdwick lamb with preserved vegetables. A dessert of malted barley custard or roasted pear with miso reflects the kitchen’s interest in fermentation and technique, applied with restraint.

The drinks list focuses on wine, with options by the glass and bottle that span traditional regions and smaller producers. A short cocktail list and low intervention options are also available. Service is informal but informed, in keeping with the pace of the room.

Rogan & Co sits between formality and comfort. It offers cooking of a high standard in a setting that feels local, lived in and grounded in its surroundings. It is a place that reflects the region’s ingredients and seasons without complication, designed for both destination diners and regular guests.

Photography by Cristian Barnett

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FAQs

Does Rogan & Co have a Michelin star?

Rogan & Co has one Michelin star.

Rogan & Co is featured in

Details

Get directions to Rogan & Co Get directions to Rogan & Co
Location
Devonshire Square, Cartmel, Cumbria, LA11 6QD

01539 535 917 01539 535 917

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 12:00-13:45
Thu 12:00-13:45
Fri 12:00-13:45
Sat 12:00-13:45
Sun Closed
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 18:00-21:00
Wed 18:00-21:00
Thu 18:00-21:00
Fri 18:00-21:00
Sat 18:00-21:00
Sun Closed

Reviews

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1 Review 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Wendy M

11 July 2013  
Food & Drink 3.5
Service 3
Atmosphere 3.5
Value 3.5
This is where L’Enclume serve breakfast, and as one would expect it is very good. Superbly prepared fresh fruit salad importantly served at peak ripeness with a wide variety of fruits and a separate pot of yoghurt lightly flavoured with vanilla alongside. Full English breakfast, cooked properly and served neatly provides a good start to the day – there are other choices. The evening we dined here, the food was not as good as expected : 1) The scallop and pea soup dish was cooked correctly but a little more soup and a few more peas would have suited me. I like hot food to be served hot, but both seafood and soup were not warm enough. 2) Partner’s starter was a treat and his main course was good. 3) My main was unremarkable and the celeriac over-powered the fish, whilst the flavour of crab in the crispy coating seemed to dissipate rapidly as did the crisp texture. 4) Wine was very good; dessert not ordered 5) Service was let down by one member of staff who seemed to think that under Simon Rogan's name a restaurant is beyond criticisim. What this young man needs to remember is that a chef is only ever as good as the last meal he cooks. His attitude was wrong and he completely lacked grace – in his view the customer could not be right and then deserves to be overlooked. Hardly an attitude which would impress. The girls and the other male staff member were polite, efficient and much better trained.
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01539 535 917 01539 535 917

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