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Leaving London to take over a restaurant in the centre of Horsham turned out to be a shrewd move for young star Tristan Mason (ex-Orrery), judging by the accolades he has garnered since arriving in Sussex (a Michelin star included). Occupying an ancient building with a 600-year-old beamed ceiling dominating the first-floor dining room, it’s perfectly pitched for a well-heeled local crowd, although prices aren’t scary. Mason has upped his game, and now hits the high notes with his ingeniously inventive cooking and clear-flavoured dishes: a starter of rabbit, wild mushrooms and salsify sets the tone, while mains cover a lot of ground from line-caught sea bass with green tomato and sea herbs to grouse with black figs and cobnuts or pork belly with squid and Jerusalem artichoke. Desserts such as pineapple soufflé with coconut and vanilla spread the net further, while customers make the most of the admirable wine list. Note: you can also drop by for breakfast in the bar.
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