Something of a hidden gem - perhaps not that hidden, but certainly a gem adding a touch more sparkle to the Cheltenham fine dining scene. What gives Purslane an added attraction is its unpretentiousness, the quite plain room resembling a 70s coffee bar and the service being efficient and attentive without going over the top. We were on the way to doing a bit of shopping in Cheltenham, passed the restaurant and a little bell of recognition rang when saw the name. So what else could we do? We popped in for lunch. Every dish was visually stunning and tastefully contrived to make the best of the ingredients. The tender, authentic, hay-baked rabbit with its slightly crunchy topping was enhanced by a perfectly-judged light smokiness and backed up with fresh peas and decorated with pickled girolles and truffle and a sensational pea mousse. The other starter was just as impressive; generous white crab, courgettes grilled to a degree that conserved the delicate juiciness, elderflower mayo, sea aster decorations and to cap it all an amazing brown crab "bonbon" - the meat coated in a perfectly weighted crunchy breadcrumb mix. Then, two stonkingly good mains - a beautifully fresh piece of megrim on a moreish inventive wheatgerm risotto, artichokes, sea spinach to emphasise the taste of the sole and rounded off with oyster emulsion, and a properly treated wild sea trout fillet artfully contrasted with a horseradish velouté and accompanied by early summer veg, baby gem lettuce, broad beans, and a slightly disappointing pea soufflé. On the basis of our satisfaction with what we'd had, and the fact that I'm a sucker for cherries, we both decided on a dessert, and were rewarded with one of the most attractive puds we can remember - poached cherries, a goat's milk yoghurt mousse served in a tall glass, topped with chocolate sprinkle and with cherries and sorbet at the bottom, along with deep-tasting cherry sorbet and a cinnamon doughnut. Absolutely brilliant! Very good coffee finished off this top-class meal on another high note. Gareth Fulford is definitely (Michelin) star material.