Poon's at Somerset House

To follow in your parents’ footsteps is a tall order when they are the founders of Poon’s - a Michelin-starred trailblazer of Cantonese cuisine in London, and popular haunt of celebs in the 70s and 80s. But, at Somerset House, Amy Poon reignites the family legacy with grace.

Amy’s mother called in a feng shui master to get the new Somerset House site up to scratch, and it’s paid off: there are soaring dusty pink walls, stencils of sprawling trees, and lights that dangle from the ceiling like glowing pebbles. For all its beauty, Poon’s is reassuringly approachable, with communal tables for casual catch-ups and family photos providing a personal touch.

To drink, we’re greeted with a pot of Chinese tea, later moving through wines by the glass. A versatile range of female-owned and biodynamic whites pair beautifully with our meal, bookended by a delightful Madeiran digestif.

Plump prawn wontons are first to arrive, generously filled and drizzled in a light chilli dressing. Ask politely for some of Poon’s signature sauces and fill your table with as many as possible - dipping and dunking between their soy bean doubanjiang, and WO sauce is what takes this meal to the next level.

Amy’s father first introduced the UK to claypot rice, and the family recipe has stood the test of time. We ignore our side plates, heaving glutinous clumps of rice and Poon’s signature wind-dried meats - which sit somewhere between a rich Spanish chorizo and a chewy beef jerky strip - straight from the pot to our mouths. The whole thing is comfortingly simple, with each grain of rice becoming crispy with meat juices as you descend to the base of the pot.

In perfect contrast, a whole seabass is deboned tableside as if our waiter is handling a fragile China doll - delicately steamed and subtly singing with soy sauce. Another example of less is more, roasted aubergine is soft and slightly sweet, enlivened with a dollop of Zha Jiang sauce and a helping of spring and crispy onions.

Ignoring the Architectural Digest-worthy interiors, Poon’s at Somerset House is all about home comforts - flame-throwing woks and MSG-laden plates are swapped for gentle flavours, family recipes and a friendly Scoville scale. While London’s restaurant scene has rapidly evolved over the past 50 years, it’s refreshing to see Poon’s stick to its roots.

Poon’s at Somerset House is the first permanent restaurant from Amy Poon, who brings her famous wontoneria to the New Wing of Somerset House, as well as a broader Cantonese menu. It brings together years of pop-ups, residencies and a growing pantry brand, shaped by personal memory and a commitment to making Chinese food more openly shared and better understood. This is not a revival of her family’s original Lisle Street restaurant, but a new chapter that balances tradition with curiosity.

The restaurant seats 60 across two connected rooms. The first space has the feel of a small library, centred around an informal communal table. The second opens onto an intimate kitchen, framed by warm timber, family photographs and artwork from Amy’s own collection. Designed in collaboration with Janet McGlennon Interiors, the interiors feel familiar rather than decorative, layered with meaning rather than trend. A private dining room seats 24 and hosts readings, tastings and events through the year. In warmer months, a terrace opens onto the cobbled courtyard outside.

The menu centres on food made daily in Chinese households, much of it underrepresented in restaurants. Steamed whole fish, stir-fried greens and clear broths are served with quiet precision. The claypot rice, first introduced to London by Amy’s father Bill, returns as a signature. Wind-dried meats, still prepared to her grandfather’s recipe, appear across both traditional and more playful dishes. In the front bar, a selection of small eats, or siu sik, offers quick snacks with storytelling attached. One is named The Hill That Amy Didn’t Die On.

The wine list focuses on cool-climate bottles from small, independent producers, many of them biodynamic or female-led. The pairing philosophy is relaxed and open-minded, making space for the unexpected. Cocktails bring light structure and playfulness, often referencing Chinese pantry staples like pickled ginger or sweet and sour.

Poon’s at Somerset House is welcoming and personal. It opens a window onto everyday Chinese cooking, led by a host who invites diners into her world without pretense.