Being the First Dates restaurant of choice is rather cool, but don’t let its TV fame distract you: the Paternoster Chop House really means business. Here is a kitchen that butchers all its meaty carcases in-house, so expect roast bone marrow among the starters, steak and kidney pudding “chock-full” of meat, and plenty of action from the Josper grill when it comes to Black Angus rib-eyes, Middle White pork chops and suchlike. It’s all robust stuff, but with plenty of refinement too. Elsewhere, game turns up in season and seafood gets a good outing (fish and chips and whole Dover sole, for example), while the classically minded simplicity extends to desserts of sticky toffee pudding and vanilla cheesecake. Hand-cut chips and other essential sides can bump up the bill, although the set menu is particularly good value. Paternoster’s heated covered terrace is a “lovely spot”, with a stunning backdrop courtesy of Sir Christopher Wren.