Maray Bold Street

Entering Maray on the increasingly chain-filled Bold Street, you get an idea of why this independent has such staying power. This cosy space, filled to the brim with happy diners tucking into gorgeous small plates, hums with good vibes as soon as you step inside.

After lustily eyeing the cocktails (hello ras el hanout vodka, hello saffron lemonade) we opted for a more laid back carafe of excellent pinot noir - a perfectly convivial pairing for what was to come.

A mezze sharer is a great test of any restaurant, and Maray’s did not disappoint. Garlicky hummus was drizzled with a profoundly lively chermoula. Za’alook was mopped up with warm and pillowy pitta. Cauliflower bhajis - soft, light and with a proper chilli kick, were dipped and doused in everything on the plate. Whipped goat’s cheese added a creamy zing to proceedings, with pickled apple ramping up the flavours even more. Although this masterclass of mezze was more than enough for two, we couldn’t resist a crushed pea with za’atar to add to the party.

More treats emerged from the kitchen, including a meaty mushroom shawarma and a light and fluffy mejadara, which while serving spot on flavours, could have done with a touch more moistness to seal the deal.

Lamb arayes with labneh and amba sauce provided more delight. However, the star dish came in the form of crispy sea bass with rich and creamy toum, topped with a refreshing kohlrabi slaw. Paired with a daub of the crushed peas with za’atar, a kind of Middle Eastern fish with mushy peas was formed. This is the magic of small plates. You can mix and match as you like, creating your own concoctions at the table.

Almost defeated, we shared a vegan chocolate ganache with Biscoff, cherries and tahini - a devilishly moreish pud where the tahini added an earthy richness, while tangy cherries kept up that characteristic party of flavours that Maray does so well.

This is the kind of joyful, welcoming neighbourhood restaurant everyone wants in their city. We hope it continues to delight and dazzle in its Bold Street spot for many more years to come.

Maray began in 2014, when the owners found themselves inspired by their experiences in the Parisian district of Le Marais, and opened a restaurant to showcase fusion Middle Eastern flavours. The restaurant takes sustainability very seriously, and became carbon neutral back in November 2021, which they consider to be the first in many steps they aim to take towards becoming a carbon net zero company.

Products are ordered fresh every day, so the Maray Bold Street menus do change. But, you can take a peep at the sample menu for a good understanding of what you may expect to find. Aperitifs are the first feature on the menu, including an intriguing Spelling Bee number made with Beefeater gin, Greek honey, pink grapefruit and basil.

On the food menu at Maray Bold Street, mezze options include hummus with pomegranate and chermoula, a baba ghanoush with pumpkin seeds and raw tahini, and whipped goat's cheese with pickled apple, herb oil and dukkah. There's a bigger focus on veg dishes rather than meat and fish, and so there's plenty to choose from. Try the disco cauliflower with chermoula, harissa, yoghurt, tahini, pomegranate, parsley and almonds, the spiced lentil and rice mejadara with local kale, crispy onions and raisins, and chickpea dopiaza made with crispy chickpeas and coriander. If you do want to order a meat or fish dish, try the crispy sea bass with tomatillo, charred corn and peas, fried chicken with fenugreek and ginger ketchup, or the rump steak with spinach, and a ras el hanout peppercorn sauce.

For dessert at Maray Bold Street, you've got options of baklava cheesecake with rose, pistachio and anglaise, the medjool date bread and butter pudding with caramel and ice cream, and chocolate and coffee ganache with sunflower seed praline, blackberry and chantilly cream.