Tucked into a cobbled alleyway just steps from Tower Bridge, Luna feels worlds away from the frenzy of the surrounding area. The latest venture from Legare duo Jay Patel and chef Matt Beardmore champions biodynamic bottles, backed by a food menu that more than holds its own. It's inconspicuous, the entrance hidden under an archway, with the kind of backstreet secrecy that makes stumbling upon it feel like a discovery.
Inside, Luna is snug but unshowy, all pale woods, muted tones and candle-lit tables. Narrow corridor seating, with its bench-lined wall, feels charming rather than cramped. Upstairs offers a little more breathing room, but the clink of glasses and soft hum of conversation drifts through every corner, and waves of customers keep the tables filled throughout the evening. At its heart sits a tiny kitchen, just big enough for two chefs, who deftly produce an impressive selection of small plates.
The menu offers concise, seasonal plates, perfectly built for grazing - though balancing all the plates on the table is its own challenge. We begin with warm potato rolls - brioche-soft with a sweet, poppy-seeded crust. We rip them apart, slathering them with a salty, whipped cultured butter. Cumbrae oysters arrive sharp and refreshing, each briny bite lifted with finger lime and ginger.
Luna shines in its simplicity, letting the produce do the talking. Octopus tentacles are smothered in citrus, oil and capers, whilst Coco de Bretagne beans pair their buttery richness with a tangy goat's curd. Heartier chunks of braised pork belly are gently spiced with caraway seeds, a sweet fattiness that’s tempered by pickled fennel stalks, though a little extra crisping wouldn’t go amiss.
As the name suggests, wine is the star here. Patel has curated a list of biodynamic and natural bottles, with an emphasis on small producers rather than household names. Staff are on hand to guide, offering tasters and nudging guests to try something new, from crisp dry whites to full bodied roses and skin-contact alternatives.
Luna is exactly what a neighbourhood wine bar should be: warm, intimate and built for lingering over a bottle (or two). We should all be so lucky to have somewhere like Luna on our doorstep; but for those who live further away, it’s worth the journey.