Having closed his flagship restaurant earlier this year, Georgio Locatelli’s latest venture brings his authentic Italian flavours to the mezzanine of the National Gallery’s freshly revamped Sainsbury Wing.
It’s a grand setting certainly, all timber floors, marble accents, and curved booths where diners are given a front row seat to Paula Rego’s ‘Crivelli’s Garden’, which sprawls along the back wall. But with a steady stream of museumgoers wandering past, and a gift shop greeting at the entrance (now selling copies of Locatelli’s own cookbooks), the mood leans more museum cafe than destination eatery.
Still, there’s charm to be found in the food. A succinct menu of seasonal offerings showcases that classic Italian simplicity, but with a touch of added artistry (we’re in a gallery after all). Burrata arrives atop a mix of crunchy spring veg, bright and balanced against the creamy cheese, though the promise of mint doesn't quite follow through. A cuttlefish salad is all subtlety: tagliatelle-like ribbons of the fish are twirled into a nest on a creamy, pea puree. It’s light, and refreshing, though a good citrussy kick wouldn’t go amiss.
Thick, handmade pasta parcels are stuffed with peas and shallots, a gently sweet filling that brings a summery touch, though the lashings of shaved black truffle feel more decorative than punchy. More robust is the pot-roast chicken, with glorious crispy skin and perfectly cooked meat that’s practically falling off the bone. It arrives swimming in a glossy, rich gravy that leans into its bitterness, brought to life by briny Taggiasche olives. A side of rosemary roast potatoes is herby and oil-drenched, though they’re little more than luxe potato wedges.
The drinks list keeps things proudly Italian, with spritzes and Sicilian lemonades alongside a well-curated wine list that champions regional producers. Dessert ends the meal on a high, although it’s hard to go wrong with a lemon tart, its sharp filling perfectly contrasting the buttery, shortbread base.
With welcoming staff, seasonal menus, and a relaxed environment, there’s plenty to love about Locatelli at the National Gallery, though it feels more like a stylish interlude between exhibitions than a culinary destination.