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There’s something rather urbane about Little Dudley House, one of the new breed of all-day eateries with serious restaurant aspirations: inside, its beamed & timbered interior successfully combines country house good looks with modern gastropub flourishes. A workmanlike wine list keeps the local crowd happy, while the cracking modern menu aims to pull in punters from further afield. Dishes such as soft-boiled duck eggs with Parma ham & Gruyère soldiers or rack of Welsh lamb with parmesan mash, confit garlic, green beans & port sauce are supplemented by homemade fish-finger sandwiches or onglet steak with triple-cooked chips & Café de Paris butter. Everything is delivered to a commendable standard, including desserts such as hot chocolate fondant with Horlicks ice cream.
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