Think subtlety is overrated? You’ll feel right at home at La Bellezza. This is Big Mamma’s first foray outside the capital, bringing its signature, over-the-top Italian fare to Birmingham’s Chamberlain Square.
From the moment the heavy burnt-orange curtains are swept back, it’s hard not to be awed by the theatricality. Murano glass chandeliers hang overhead, with back-lit shelves lined with thousands of bottles, and more foliage than your local garden centre. Tables are smartly packed in to maximise space, and we sink into velvet booths, each glance drawing our attention to another miniscule detail. In lesser hands it could be garish, but Big Mamma’s playful charm and welcoming atmosphere make it all feel oddly effortless - who else could get away with turning the bathroom into an Italian football shrine?
The menu leans into the theatrics, and guests will recognise several of the groups signature dishes: carbonara served tableside with an extravagant whirl from a pecorino wheel; lemon meringue pies that reach for the sky; spaghetti smothered with mounds of truffle - the kind of Instagram-worthy plates that demand a few photos before the first bite.
We drown pillowy focaccia in olive oil and vinegar, before tearing into moreish truffle arancini, bound with a rich multi-cheese bechamel. Portions are unapologetically generous, and the pasta is no exception. Thick-cut spaghettoni leans al-dente, laden with a rich lamb and San Marzano tomato ragu and finished with minty salsa verde - a classic combo that has us thinking of Sunday roasts, just with extra carbs and cheese. The crab and langoustine linguine is perhaps even better - zippy and fresh, with crab meat bound in a lemon butter sauce. A touch of heat would have taken it to the next level, but it’s outstanding, nonetheless.
The ‘incomparable’ lemon pie lives up to its name: this behemoth of a dessert features almost six inches of soft, gooey meringue, perched on a sharp lemon curd base. You really have to fight to get to the bottom, and most of your bites are just marshmallowy fluff, but it’s a fittingly dramatic end to the meal. With slick service, a buzzing atmosphere, and incredibly indulgent plates, La Bellezza delivers on the Big Mamma promise - bold, brash, and undeniably fun.