Kokin

Kokin chef Daisuke Shimoyama previously helmed one of London’s most criminally underrated restaurants - kaiseki spot Hannah in County Hall. Now overseeing a much larger, more modern space at The Stratford, the transition from Hannah’s intimate, ceremonial format to a more expansive a la carte offering is no small leap. Yet Shimoyama rises to the challenge, applying his meticulous culinary style to a broader menu of sushi, tempura, and wood-fired dishes.

The minimal, contemporary space, once home to Patrick Powell’s Allegra, remains largely untouched. Though its neutral tones may verge on muted, the clean lines and understated elegance mirror the razor-sharp precision of Shimoyama’s cooking. Guests can choose from high-backed stools at the marble counter or plush dining chairs and low poufs surrounding stone tables.

Still, Kokin feels like a square peg in an enormous round hole - at least for now. The room is easily three times the size of Hannah, and that scale brings a palpable tension. But there’s no doubt about the quality of what’s coming out of the kitchen: Shimoyama’s soulful wood-fired dishes are exceptional.

The early signs are unmistakable. A trio of starters makes an immediate impression: a skewer of grilled tuna with a rich puddle of egg yolk curry sauce; a plump oyster nestled in wood-smoked celeriac purée; and a silky, just-set chawanmushi crowned with smoked eel. The latter is particularly brilliant - a masterclass in texture and restraint.

Kokin is among a select few London restaurants sourcing wild Portuguese tuna, revered for its superior fattiness and texture over the more common Spanish bluefin. It features prominently throughout the menu, from glistening sashimi to the standout wood-fired tuna collar. Charred over flame and finished in a pool of aged ponzu - matured for eight years to deepen and round its citrusy bite - the result is an extraordinarily savoury, meaty dish that lingers long after the last bite.

It’s a special dish - as compelling a sign as any that Kokin delivers on its promise of being ‘a new expression of Japanese cuisine.’ There’s no doubt Shimoyama is creating something exceptional here, we only hope enough people make the journey to Stratford to try it for themselves.

Translating to ‘past and present’ in Japanese, Kokin blends traditional Japanese techniques with modern methods. It’s located on the seventh floor of The Stratford Hotel but the stretching views over London aren’t nearly half as beautiful as what you can expect to find on your plate.

In the space previously occupied by Patrick Powells’ Allegra, Kokin is an elegant, minimalist space, decorated with dried flowers and wooden interiors, including two outdoor terraces. Chef Daisuke Shimoyama opened his first omakase restaurant in Southbank called Hannah and is now turning his attention to woodfire. At Kokin, fire is not a technique, it’s an ingredient. The kitchen infuses dishes with fragrant smoke from cherry and apple wood and uses charcoal to inject texture at a high heat. Bridging authentic flavours with innovation, dishes range from one-bite fish and chips with smoked caviar to wood-fire anago chawanmushi, a Japanese steamed egg custard topped with sea eel.

In keeping with its sophisticated design, there’s the chance to taste something extra special here. Wood-fire A5 Miyazaki Wagyu is served with optional truffles and their signature dish is bluefin tuna, which is considered a prize fish among chefs and is in season for a short period only. To mark the occasion, Kokin offers guests the opportunity to watch the break-down of a whole tuna in a sustainable fashion, using as much of the fish as possible. To follow, there’s a five-course tuna omakase including tuna tartare with XO sauce and grilled tuna collar with eight-year-aged ponzu.

The drinks offering includes sakes, Japanese-inspired cocktails and wine. Everything they do here is underpinned by seasonality, care and respect, which creates a dining experience that feels a cut above the rest.