Don’t be deceived by Jin-Kichi’s higgledy-piggledy interior: the outmoded decor, tired furnishings and closely packed tables are no indication of food quality, which is pretty darned impressive. With chefs lined up behind a robata grill, it’s no surprise that skewers are a speciality. Yakitori, the typical chicken and spring onion combo, sets the benchmark, but there are much more unusual options, from ox tongue to chicken skin crisped with salt, or delicious quails’ eggs dappled with teriyaki sauce. Other hot stuff includes stewed pork belly and grilled salmon jaw, but don’t overlook the sushi; the raw fish is glisteningly fresh (try the rolls packed with silky yellowtail and avocado). As an alternative to the expensive and limited wine list, drink hot or cold saké, or shochu cocktails (grapefruit sour, for instance).